First steps in the bonsai world

Most people believe that growing miniature bonsai trees is only possible for experienced gardeners. However, as with any endeavor, it is important to have the necessary information and follow certain rules in order to achieve the desired result.
If you received a tree as a gift and are unsure what to do with it after the celebration, this article is for you.

Basic principles

A small plant, despite its age, needs daily care, just like a small child. This determines how much pleasure and benefit you can give each other.

Watering

Start with the most essential thing—check the moisture content of the soil in the pot. This can be done in various ways—using a strip of cardboard, a dry stick, a moisture indicator, by weight, or simply with your finger. The measurement should be taken at a depth of 2-3 cm, near the roots.
If the tests show that it is dry, you need to take action. But not just any water can be used. Tap water, well water, spring water, river water, lake water, etc. contain impurities such as chlorine, lime, and metals. These can be partially removed by settling or, in extreme cases, boiling. Other options include bottled drinking water (non-mineralized and, of course, non-carbonated), filtered water, rainwater, or snowmelt.

Miniature trees require delicate watering—the stream of water from the watering can should not wash away the soil or overflow the edge of the pot, as nutrients are carried away with the water.
The same applies to drainage holes—the water that has leaked out contains substances that are beneficial to the tree, so you need to pour it back into the pot or water in small portions.
You can use a spray bottle for watering.
The temperature of the water for most plants should be a few degrees higher than the ambient air temperature.
Keep in mind that the rate at which the soil dries out depends on:

• the size of the pot (the smaller it is, the faster it dries);
• the material of the pot (plastic heats up more and faster than ceramic);
• the color of the pot;
• the composition of the soil (light fractions dry out faster);
• the presence and type of drainage, the size, and number of drainage holes;
• the size of the above-ground part of the plant;
• the type of plant (coniferous or deciduous);
• the time of year;
• air temperature and humidity;
• the presence and type of mulch layer (moss, bark, peat, expanded clay, agricultural film);
• weather conditions (wind, rain).

The need for watering is determined only by the actual condition of the soil, not by a schedule.
It is incorrect to rely only on the top layer, as a light rain or watering can create the appearance of a watered plant, while the root area will be dry.
When checking moisture content mechanically (probe, sticks, finger, etc.), the roots are damaged, so the best method is to use a permanent indicator and to check the weight of the pot.
If there are Kanuma or Kiryuzuna granules on the soil surface, the moisture content of the top layer can be determined visually by their color (wet granules are darker than dry ones).
It is especially important to control moisture on hot days.
For example, on a sunny summer day, outdoors, at a temperature of +25…+28 °C, a small pot (and with it the roots) dries out within a few hours. Evening resuscitation usually does not help.

Excess moisture (overwatering) is no less dangerous for plants. In constantly wet soil, the root system rots due to a lack of oxygen, which leads to the death of the plant.
A moist environment is ideal for the development of harmful fungi and mold, so watering is recommended only after the top layer has dried.

Placement

The correct placement of a bonsai depends on the type of tree, climate, and season. Mistakes in choosing a location often lead to plant diseases or illness.
Bonsai trees grown outdoors should be kept in the fresh air all year round (in winter, during dormancy, to prevent the roots from freezing, they can be kept in a cold room at a temperature of 0…+5 °C).
Indoor plants are kept indoors, and during the warm season – outdoors, provided there are no adverse factors (strong wind, direct sunlight, frost, heat).
For tropical and subtropical plants, the temperature should be +20…+28 °C all year round. During the growing season, temperatures below +15 °C are highly undesirable.
During the dormant period for subtropical plants (depending on the species), the temperature should be reduced to +12…+15 °C.

Lighting

The optimal duration of bright, indirect sunlight for photosynthesis (which is necessary for all living organisms and plants) is 6–8 hours per day. In cloudy weather, in winter, or in rooms with little light, artificial light sources are used: fluorescent and LED lamps (full spectrum).
Keep in mind:

• direct midday sun is undesirable for most plants, as it causes leaf burns and bark damage (especially in early spring).
• dark-colored containers or pots heat up intensely from the sun in summer, which is very harmful to the roots. The temperature can reach +50 °C, which greatly exceeds the acceptable threshold. In summer, dark pots can be covered with white film, wrapped in paper, or painted with light-colored paint—this reduces the temperature from solar heating by +10…+15 °C.

Air humidity

Plants breathe and evaporate moisture through pores on the surface of their leaves. The speed of evaporation and, accordingly, the absorption of water and nutrients from the soil depends on the humidity of the surrounding air.
At low humidity, growth slows down, and the leaves begin to curl and turn yellow.
High humidity causes moisture to stagnate on the surface of the leaves due to low evaporation, increasing the risk of fungal diseases.
The optimal air humidity for indoor bonsai is 50-70%.
In a room with heating, the humidity around the plants can be increased by placing the bonsai on trays with wet pebbles and water, as well as by regularly spraying them with water (1-2 times a day).
Harmful factors for the plant are:

• air currents from fans and air conditioners, drafts, strong winds;
• proximity to heating devices (fin heat exchangers, fireplaces, radiators).

Temperature

The optimal temperature for growing indoor bonsai is between +18 and +24 °C. In winter, during the dormant period, it is +12 to +15 °C.
Of course, each plant species has its own recommended temperature range depending on the season, the likelihood of frost, cold, or heat. If the bonsai overwinters on a balcony, loggia, garage, or other unheated room, it is necessary to prepare thermal insulation material in advance to protect the tree from the effects of low temperatures.
Sudden temperature fluctuations negatively affect plant growth.

Soil and substrate

Virtually all bonsai plants can grow in so-called light soils mixed with fertile soil. Light soils consist of Akadama, Kiryuzuna, Kanuma, river sand, and additives such as pumice, perlite, or vermiculite. Humus (a product of the decomposition of plant, animal, and microorganism remains) and black soil (fertile soil) are used in small quantities as fertile soil. To choose the right soil for your plant, you need to consider many factors:

• tree style;
• characteristics of growing this species;
• tree and pot size;
• conditions and possibilities for regular care;
• keeping outdoors or indoors;
• age of the tree.

The solution to this problem comes with experience, through experimentation, by observing the development of the plant. But this is a long and not always successful method. It is more rational to summarize information from literature, online search engines, and advice from experienced bonsai artists.

Fertilizers

Bonsai pots are small and usually filled with plant roots, so nutrition mainly comes from liquid or solid (granulated) fertilizers. The dosage and frequency of application are indicated on the packaging. If there are already fertilizer baskets in the pot, then everything is fine and the tree is being fed with each watering. If not, then the situation needs to be corrected by purchasing them. The duration of action of granular fertilizers for bonsai is typically up to 2 months, after which the granules are replaced with new ones. Liquid fertilizers work faster than solid ones, but caution is needed, as high concentrations of fertilizer can burn the roots of the plant.

Tools and accessories

The world of bonsai is based on thousands of years of experience in growing miniature trees using special techniques. Understanding and following these techniques allows you to care for your plant properly and create amazing specimens.
High-quality and proper tools not only enable you to do the job skillfully, but also to enjoy it.
What you need to have first and foremost:

• electronic thermometer/moisture meter;
• soil moisture indicator;
• scissors for shortening shoots;
• long tweezers for removing fallen leaves;
• wire for bending branches;
• wound sealant;
• fertilizer baskets;
• a small watering can with a long spout and a fine mesh;
• a spray bottle;
• a tray with pebbles for humidifying the air;
• a tray under the pot for excess water.

Shaping

Be skeptical of videos that show how easy and simple it is to create masterpiece bonsai with a saw and wire. In reality, it's not that simple.
Cutting off a branch takes a few seconds, but growing a new one takes years.
To understand the sequence of actions and possibilities, you need to know the characteristics of the structure and growth of your tree. After that, you can choose a goal – a specific style that you want to achieve.

The more complex the style, the more years it will take. Until you have experience, put the saw or pruning shears aside and arm yourself with small bonsai scissors, wire, and stretchers. If you do everything right, you will see noticeable changes in a year or two. A camera is a good tool for shaping. Take photos every month and over time you will have an archive, an understanding of how your tree grows, its character and abilities.
Of course, there are rules for shaping bonsai, which must be studied and followed. It is a creative process, as in any art.

Repotting

When young, bonsai should be repotted every two years. As they mature and grow in size, they can be repotted at longer intervals. The best time for repotting is spring. Repotting involves pruning the roots and renewing the soil.

Pests and diseases

Regularly checking your plant with a magnifying glass helps you spot problems early. For example, spider mites live on the underside of leaves and can be spotted by their webs and tiny translucent eggs.
Mites, aphids, and other pests will not cause significant harm to plants if they are detected in time and treated with insecticides.
Fungal and other diseases are much more difficult to diagnose and treat.
If the roots of the plant have started to rot, you need to change the soil to a lighter one, water less often, and provide more light.
If the leaves are affected by a fungal disease, you should reduce the humidity, stop spraying, and increase the flow of light and fresh air.
The best remedy is timely prevention.

What to do when going on vacation

For 1–3 days
To avoid unpleasant surprises when leaving for a day or several days, move the tree to a warm place where it will not be exposed to direct sunlight, rain, or wind, and will not be examined by pets or other animals, etc.
To prevent drying out, spread damp moss over the surface of the soil in the pot and cover it with plastic wrap.

For 4 days or more
You will need outside help from relatives, friends, or good acquaintances. Care tools and verbal and written instructions are essential.
As a last resort, you can purchase an automated watering and lighting system. The result is directly related to the reliability and cost of the equipment.