Starting to grow a tree in a pot is not an easy task, it is as much trouble as with a small child, with the difference that even a mature tree will not be able to live without human help. The main thing for a tree to live is to fulfill the necessary conditions of humidity, temperature, nutrition, rest, and light.
How well these requirements are met will be reflected in its appearance and health.
Bonsai trees are not only grown for themselves, but also for display. And your tree is like an open book that can tell you about its conditions. The color and size of needles or leaves, overgrown and fresh stumps of removed branches, wire marks on the bark of the trunk, new shoots and many other things are identified with the owner of the tree and his relationship with the plant. Therefore, not only the final result is important, but also the right way to get there.
Care for the tree depends on what species it belongs to and in what conditions its relatives grow. Subtropical plants (ficus, palms, grapefruit, figs, etc.) as a rule, grow pro stable temperature throughout the year and therefore can be grown in room conditions.
The most common bonsai species (pine, spruce, juniper, maple, elm, ginkgo, etc.) require exposure to all seasons of the year and therefore can be kept indoors for very short periods of time. One of the most common misconceptions about bonsai trees is that they can be kept at home. To survive, these trees need to alternate between a period of growth and a period of dormancy. The dormant period completes the annual growth cycle.
Latvia's climatic conditions oblige to keep temperate plants outdoors all year round, with additional protection from severe frost often needed in winter.
Dormant period
For most plants, the dormant period lasts 6–8 weeks at temperatures between +6 °C and -4 °C. Most temperate bonsais can tolerate a temperature drop to -4 °C without additional protection. Many plants shed their leaves during the dormant period. Some species, such as Chinese elm, may or may not shed their leaves during the dormant period. At average temperatures (above freezing) they remain evergreen, gradually renewing their foliage throughout the year, giving the impression of being evergreen. Without a dormant period, deciduous plants continue to grow for up to two years at most, then they go into dormancy on their own, regardless of the season or ambient temperature. This is very stressful for the plant, often leading to its death.
Watering
Experienced bonsai growers do not recommend watering bonsai by the dip method or on a schedule. Watering by dipping is occasionally used as an exception for parched plants in need of immediate revitalization, for newly transplanted plants, or to soak the root ball in a nutrient solution. Immersion watering causes salts to build up in the soil. Watering from above leaches salts and various harmful impurities from the soil. Watering from above should be done with a small watering can without allowing the soil to erode. Bonsai growing in room conditions should be watered when they require it. The interval between waterings depends on the level of light, temperature, the degree of filling the container space with roots, the number of leaves and air humidity. The need for frequent watering of outdoor bonsais is more pronounced in sunny, hot and windy weather when the soil dries out quickly. There are 3 main methods of determining if a plant requires watering. By weight — a plant with dried out soil is much lighter. The second method — with a finger gently turn the soil to a depth of 0.5–1 cm — if dry, then it is necessary to water. The third way — by sticking a small stick into the soil for a few minutes (for example, toothpicks). If the stick is dry when you pull it out, it is time to water.
Insufficient watering is the biggest trouble for a tree. The frequency of watering and its regime may vary depending on weather or room conditions, so it is better to orient yourself by directly checking the top layer of soil under the mulch. Its dryness and will be a signal to watering. If you water abundantly, the water will immediately begin to pour out through the drainage holes of the container, and the soil will remain dry, so water in small portions, using a sprayer or a watering can with small holes.
Excessive watering also leads to unfortunate consequences — the roots rot, and the needles or leaves turn yellow and shrivel.
Temperature regime
Indoor plants need a suitable temperature, without sudden fluctuations, direct exposure to air conditioning, drafts, or heating from the sun. Particular care should be taken when taking indoor bonsais outdoors.
Lighting
Direct sunlight can leave burns on the surface of the leaves and cracks on the trunk of the tree. Outdoor bonsais are more tolerant of sunlight, but on sultry summer days you should be prepared to shade the trees, especially as heat, sun, and wind quickly dry out the soil.
Lack of light caused by the constant presence of the plant in the shade adversely affects its growth and health, so it is optimal to place the plants in places with bright, diffused light.
The main problem of keeping bonsai at home is insufficient light intensity, which can cause the plant to stretch out and, as a consequence, weaken its growth. Even on a sunny windowsill, 12 hours of light (e.g., 2x 40W) is required.
Plant care
Pruning and shaping of the tree is necessary to maintain the miniature size of the bonsai, to keep its compact and regular shape and to stimulate the growth of new branches. It should be kept in mind that new branches create an application to the growing ones, so a general understanding of the future shape of the tree is needed here. Branch pruning should be done when the plant is dormant, and for flowering trees — in spring. Correction and shaping of the crown is also done with wire wrapped around the branches. It is important to keep an eye on and remove the wire in time when it starts to cut into the bark during the growth of the tree.
Soil and fertilizer
The composition of the soil depends on the type of plant, its age and the availability of ingredients. There is no such thing as a one-size-fits-all solution, so you should study what the plant requires at what times and prepare the mixture very responsibly.
Drainage is an integral part of the bonsai container. Its purpose is to drain excess water during watering and to provide the roots of the plant with air. The material used for drainage (pumice, lava, expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite, small pebbles, pieces of charcoal, etc.) usually does not contain nutrients, but its effect on the plant is very significant.
Fertilizer. Since plants consume nutrients from the soil during growth, bonsai need to be fertilized periodically, on a schedule and best of all when watering through a special fertilizer basket. Most fertilizers should be applied once a week. Fertilize bonsai plants as soon as they start to grow and finish when the dormancy period begins. Tropical plants can be fertilized during the entire growth period.
Air circulation and humidity
Fresh air for indoor bonsai during the summer months should be provided through an open window or ventilator.
Air humidity is the most important factor in keeping temperate bonsais at home. More often than not, the only available way to increase humidity is by spraying. Tropical plants need very high humidity, temperate plants do not.
Pests and diseases
Constant careful inspection of the plant with a magnifying glass allows you to detect problems in time. For example, the spider mite lives on the inside of the leaves and can be detected by spider webs and tiny translucent eggs laid.
Mites, aphids and other pests will not cause much damage to plants if they are spotted in time and treated with appropriate insecticides.
Insecticides should be applied in strict accordance with the instructions. Frequent or sloppy application is dangerous for humans.
Fungal and other diseases are much more difficult to diagnose and treat.
If the roots of the plant began to rot, it is necessary to change the soil to a lighter one, water less frequently and provide a higher intensity of light.
If the fungal disease plunged leaves, you should reduce air humidity, stop spraying, increase the inflow of light and fresh air.
The most important and difficult thing is to learn to understand the language of the tree. And if you fulfill its wishes (and better to anticipate) there will be no problems with care.
